Skin through the ages - featured in the Black Skin Directory
From your 20s through to your 50s and beyond, Dr Saira Vasdev shares her advice on how to look after your skin through the ages. To read the full article please click into the image.
And here’s the full interview:
What are the essential steps for skincare regardless of age or concern?
The philosophy of good skincare is built on the foundation of 3 key practices - Cleanse. Hydrate. Protect.
A gentle yet effective cleansing routine is the important first step in both AM and PM regimes, as it will remove a build up of dirt, sebum and bacteria which can lead to breakouts, inflammation and dull skin. Skip this essential first step and you throw off the success of your whole routine. In essence, cleansing prepares your skin to allow optimal absorption of the targeted ingredients applied after. Double cleansing in the evening is good practice to remove dirt, make up and sunscreen from they day and prep your skin for any topical actives that will help your skin repair and regenerate overnight.
All skins need hydration in some form or another. Whether it be an essence, emulsion, serum or lipid rich cream, using a moisturiser replenishes the skin barrier and smooths out complexion for a youthful glow. Hyaluronic acid is the winning ingredient when it comes to plump hydrated skin.
Arguably the most important step is protecting the skin against environmental damage through daily application of an antioxidant and SPF. This power couple work together to fight pollution, UV radiation and prevent premature skin ageing. SPF protects all skin types, including skin of colour from skin cancer.
Typically In your teens, what routine would you recommend and avoid?
Encouraging healthy skincare habits in your teens will set you up for happier skin in the long term. Common skin complaints during the teenage years include blemishes, acne and discolouration so skincare should be tailored to address individual concerns. Nevertheless a solid routine that nails the basics - cleanse, antioxidant, sunscreen - is recommended. A corrective treatment can be integrated to target specific concerns. Beta hydroxyacids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid are well known for clearing pores and reducing breakouts. Azelaic acid is ideal for more stressed out skin types as a gentle exfoliant which has both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. Squalane is a natural non-comedogenic moisturiser that is ideal for oily or acne prone skin as it can help regulate sebum and prevent moisture loss without any risk of sensitivity. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) however is the stand out multi-tasking skin hero as it tackles multiple skin concerns (such as blemishes, redness) whilst sitting well with other active ingredients (such as AHA/BHAs, retinoids).
Things to avoid would be using toothpaste as a spot treatment, overly aggressive exfoliation especially with harsh scrubs and face wipes as these will strip the skin of its natural oils, causing dryness and irritation. Another pitfall would be using trendy tonics, facial oils and other cosmetics that have been heavily marketed towards teenagers. Although the pretty packaging might be tempting, many lack the skin science behind medical grade topicals.
Typically in your 20s what treatments/routines are often advised for healthy skin overall and is there anything you would advise to avoid?
Our 20’s is when the ageing process starts to kick in with a net loss of collagen of 1% per year from the age of 21. By your late 20’s you may even see fine lines and wrinkles appearing around the eyes along with an uneven skin tone. This is the time to future proof your skin by adopting a skincare strategy that prevents premature ageing. Vitamin C and SPF will protect and preserve your existing collagen, keeping your skin healthy and resilient. A liquid exfoliant containing AHA/BHAs will boost surface radiance through it’s skin refining actions as well as keeping pores clear. A low dose OTC retinol is recommended from your mid 20’s, starting very gradually to build tolerance and minimise irritation.
Ideal in clinic treatments would include medical grade facials such as the Hydrafacial which combines dermabrasion with dermal infusion to nourish and hydrate the skin whilst tackling any imbalances. LED therapy is a useful tool to heal and repair stressed out skin, regulate oil and acne causing bacteria. For those with acne scarring or hyperpigmentation, a more targeted approach using skin peels or microneedling may be prescribed by a medical practitioner.
For those in their 20’s, I’d advise against using too many actives in their routine. Some actives just don’t sit comfortably beside one another (such as retinoids and benzylperoxide) and may lead to a pH imbalance, barrier disruption, and sensitised skin. Not pretty or fun. I recommend sticking with the essentials and being consistent with your routine. Using multifunctional products can really simplify things.
Are there any misconceptions you hear amongst your 20+ clientele?
Probably the most common misconception I have encountered in my twenty-something clientele is that they believe that they need to start with injectables such as botox and filler super early to prevent lines and wrinkles occurring in the first place. Where there may be a minority of individual cases who may benefit from early intervention with injectable treatments, these tend to be the exception rather than the rule. Many underestimate the power of a solid medical grade skincare routine. The skin should always be treated in the first instance before embarking on injectable treatments. These are best left until your thirties when facial ageing processes extend to the structures beyond the skin (such as volume loss and ligament changes).
As the skin transitions and ages, how would you recommend best looking after it? What are the fundamentals?
Healthy lifestyle behaviours are absolutely fundamental to skin health and positive ageing. All year round UVR protection with sunscreen is probably the most important factor when considering its impact of the sun on skin ageing as well as pigmentation disorders and inflammatory conditions such as rosacea. Avoid smoking, excessive alcohol, refined sugars and processed foods as these can lead to chronic inflammation which is damaging to the skin and leads to premature ageing. Making healthy choices when it comes to nutrient rich foods that support the skin’s natural functions and staying hydrated are important when considering your skin goals.
Medical grade skincare is science backed skincare that contains pharmacologically active ingredients that penetrate the skin’s surface to influence it’s natural biology in a positive way. It is best to level up your skincare in your early 20’s. It may require some investment in time but there are some very affordable options out there to suit all budgets. Good skincare practices do not necessarily need to be expensive. It all comes down to empowering yourself through education. This is where expert help can guide you through
As collagen levels decline and the skin loses its laxity during the 30s and 40’s, it’s important to start collagen stimulating treatments to ensure we bank as much collagen as possible to slow down the ageing process. Effective options include microneedling, injectable skin boosters such as Profhilo and platelet rich plasma (PRP) which all trigger bioremodelling and improve the quality of the skin. This is the period where hydrolysed collagen supplements can really be of value as they support neocollagenesis meaning they ramp up collagen production. Dermal fillers are fantastic tools for keeping wrinkles and sagging tissues at bay as we age by restoring volume and structure to the face. They may even may refine skin quality ensuring that we hold on to that youthful glow.
Menopausal skin changes commonly appear between the ages of 45-55 although perimenopause may start as early as your mid thirties. A decline is oestrogen will lead to accelerated collagen loss (up to 30%!), dry flaky skin, sensitivities and pigmentation. Many women feel as if they have literally “aged overnight”. Skincare needs will change. Moisturisers should contain a combination of humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), fatty acids and ceramides to lock in moisture and prevent transepidermal (TEWL) water loss. Retinoids remain the gold standard for anti ageing. The addition of peptides will increase skin firmness. In regards to treatments, skin tightening procedures using devices such as HIFU, radio frequency and fractional lasers are indicated in this age group.
What are common myths when it comes to skin in your 40s and 50s - is there any needing to correct?
Myths that I hear time and time again is that “retinol thins the skin” and “my skin just can’t tolerate retinol at all”. This is not the case at all. Whilst initial use may be associated with a period of sensitivity, these symptoms do not last forever and the skin gradually adjusts with slow but consistent use over several weeks. Using a suitable moisturiser with emollient effects alongside your retinol will allow your skin to build tolerance over time.
Retinol does not thin the skin. In fact, there is robust scientific evidence that proves that the main benefits occur with long term use of retinol. Over time, retinol increases levels of both collagen and elastin, reduces chronic inflammation and strengthens the skin’s barrier resulting in healthier and more resilient skin.
Regardless of age, what are the common concerns within your clinic? How do you recommend treating them?
At Skin & Sanctuary we serve a wide and diverse population, catering for all skin types and a broad range of skin concerns irrespective of age or gender. Among the most common skin complaints are ageing skin, challenged skin such as acne and rosacea, uneven skin tone, dark circles and menopausal skin changes. The relatable bond among all patients is the desire for healthy skin that glows with confidence.
Our philosophy is to provide each individual patient with a personalised treatment plan which delivers a 360 approach to skin health. The foundation is always medical grade skincare to treat the skin and correct specific concerns. This may often include lifestyle changes and supplements to enhance our treatment outcomes.
The next stage is a targeted skin rejuvenation plan where patient’s will work with one of our clinical team by undergoing treatments such as medical facials or skin peels. We focus on evidence based treatments that both correct and prevent by stimulating the skin’s own natural biorevitalisation capabilities.
And finally, once the skin is optimised we may perform a combination of injectable procedures using the latest cutting edge aesthetic techniques to achieve beautifully subtle yet transformative results.
