Azelaic Acid - Is it really the underdog?

Image credit Juriel Majeed on Unsplash

Being East London’s hidden Facial Aesthetics Clinic we have learnt a little about being the underdog. It’s never held us back and has taught us to always look beyond the current favourites.

And that’s why I’ve asked Medical Director, Dr Saira Vasdev to explain why the term Azelaic Acid is appearing more and more on our treatment plans. Just like it’s better know cousin AHAs and BHAs like Hyaluronic Acid or Salicylic Acid, Azelaic Acid has tonnes of benefits for your skin. And though it’s also super easy to incorporate into your daily skincare routine it’s still often overlloked. So I thought it was high time to change that.

But thought it best left to the true expert to explain…

… Azelaic acid has long been the unsung hero in the world of skincare, and has often taken a back seat to the likes of more well known acids such as glycolic and salicylic acid. However, you will find it on the ingredient list of many skincare products, especially those designed to treat blemished skin. Azaleic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is naturally derived from yeast found in grains such as wheat and barley. It is a multi-tasking ingredient which has a broad effect on the skin and can therefore be useful in treating a wide range of skin concerns. Some of it's benefits include:

As a liquid exfoliator to stimulate cellular renewal and improve the skin's texture and luminosity.

It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects making it a highly effective treatment for acne prone skin, and is less irritating compared to salicylic acid. It gently unclogs pores without stripping the skin's barrier leading to excessive dryness and discomfort.

Reduces the appearance of redness in Rosacea patients

It also has powerful antioxidant effects which protect the skin from environmental damages and premature ageing

Azaleic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor which means it will suppress melanin production making it a highly effective in treating hyperpigmentation and brightening the skin. It will simultaneously clear acne lesions whilst fading dark spots/scars caused by post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

AA is most effective when prescribed at a concentration of 20% by a medical practitioner. I often prescribe Skinoren 20% Azaleic acid lotion for my patients and recommend it be introduced gradually into a skincare routine to allow for skin tolerance and slowly increase usage to 1-2 times daily.

If you would like to know more please call us at the clinic on 020 3905 5555

Dr Saira Vasdev

Skinoren 20% cream requires a prescription. Cost as at November 2022 £22.00